![]() ![]() Add to this the fact that most similar scents can be found for ridiculous sums, while this remains a bit of a high-end fragrance, I imagine is a bit disillusioning for Hanae Mori fans.īut of course, there is more than something to be said about the marketing and cultural aspects of a fragrance, and Hanae Mori has and will remain a cult fragrance. But after coming across so many celebrity scents with the same formula (nondescript flower + random choice of fruit + vague musk + arbitrary piece of wood) and the same premise - it did lose a fair amount of its lustre. In hindsight, this perfume is quite fun and original for its time. It's a little too sticky-sweet to my taste, and without enough darkness to sustain my interest (I like sweet, but I also like a bit more of an edge to a scent - which is why I so enjoy L by Lolita Lempicka - the warmth of the cinnamon and the hint of immortelle really balance all the vanilla and musk overload). More vanilla and sweetness will come along further as it develops on the skin. So perhaps this is not entirely sugar and fluff. Another interesting element that comes out is sandalwood. It reminds me of the insane Japanese bubble gum I had long time ago, the one that turns your skin into a rose-smelling bed of red hives. Rose that is slightly green, yet also sweet and juicy-citrusy. After a few good minutes, the rose peeks out of its hiding place. It took the gourmand sweetness of classics such as Eau de Charlotte (based on chocolate and cassis) to a new level of exaggerated sweetness. It envelopes with a smooth, sweet (and not sickening, yet) aura of fun-loving innocence. Creamy heliotropin creates an almondy nuance, and alongside strawberry-flavoured saltwater taffy, it is hard to imagine a little girl who won't like it. But cotton candy is the true star of the show for the next few minutes. The beginning is somewhat fresh, with hints of crisp apples, and light citrusy rose and strawberry. While Angel and Lolita Lempicka had sweet notes that sugar-coated a very bold base dominated by patchouli and vetiver respectively - Hanae Mori's goes straight to the candy. It is probably the fragrance that have set the trend for the myriads of sugary fruity-florals that dominate the celebrity scent world. It’s available at stores like Macy’s and Sephora for $130/100 ml and $99/50 ml.Created in 1996, Hanae Mori's eponymus scent* is as young as my daughter (which is a perenial if not a "classic" in current perfume lifespan terms) and is about as girly as could be. Hanae Mori “Butterfly”includes notes of black currant, wild strawberry, blackberry, blueberry, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, peony, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Brazilian rosewood and almond tree. To be sure, you need to like gourmands to wear this if you do occasionally have a perfume sweet tooth like me, this is one of the best. This is just enough of an edge to remind you this is a grownup perfume and not a pre-teen body spray (or an actual cupcake). ![]() It might all be too much, but what keeps Hanae Mori on the right side of history is the delicate florals – rose, jasmine, peony – and a slightly sharp, soapy green note, similar to the dish-soap note in Rochas Tocade but with half the intensity. ![]() It’s not just melted sugar (ethyl maltol), but caramel sauce with butter and cream. There’s the custardy aspect of ylang-ylang, the milky aspect of sandalwood, plus a toasted almond note like nuts in a graham cracker crust. This big pink glow is offset by a deliciously creamy base, all the materials chosen for richness. The primary fruit note is strawberry, but it’s more abstract than literal – like a pop-art painting of a strawberry. Spray it on and you’ll smell a facsimile of a fruit tart from a French bakery: berries arranged just so and glistening with apricot jam. Butterfly, instead, was content to be pretty. Created by Bernard Ellena in 1995, just three years after Angel, Hanae Mori borrowed the apparently new idea of layering fruit over caramel, but skipped the massively pungent patchouli note that made Angel so shocking. The original Hanae Mori for women, sometimes known as “Butterfly” due to the bottle design, is a first-generation gourmand. I was recently in one of those moods, what Holly Golightly would call “the mean reds,” when such a palliative is called for, and my mind immediately went to Hanae Mori. My comfort scents are the equivalent of crème brûlée, which is to say, sugar and fat: perfume as mouthfeel. I can claim no such level of sophistication. 19 – perhaps because your mother wore it, or perhaps because the orris, vetiver, and galbanum are cool like a hand on a fevered head. I suspect there are those among you who, on an especially rough day, derive comfort from an elegant classic like Chanel No. Elisa on stress and the gourmand ways to fight it. ![]()
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